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It's squash season and most anticipated season, not least for all the curries and other hearty meals of autumn. Today's Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the combination of ginger, chilli and jaggery gives it a wonderful flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is packed with whole spices, basmati and clarified butter, which give so much more taste to the strata of grains and produce.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

National curry week starts on early October, so what better way to celebrate than with a flavorful, warming, single-pot biryani? For convenience, make the spiced vegetable mixture component ahead of time and assemble all components on the day you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Serves 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cut into bite-sized pieces
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

Begin by preparing the curry base. Heat the clarified butter in a sizable, thick-bottomed pot on a medium heat, add the cumin, bay and cloves, and sauté for a brief moment. Add the sliced onion and cook, stirring often, for about half an hour, until tender. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a separate dish and reserve (you'll use them later during the layering).

Add the fresh chilies and ginger to the onions in pan, cook for a minute, then mix in the tomato paste, chili powder, turmeric powder and coriander, and fry for a short while. Turn down to a gentle flame, blend in the yoghurt and simmer for two minutes.

Add the pumpkin pieces and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then cook for several minutes. Add the stock or water, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat, place lid and cook gently for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure no sticking to the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle with coriander, then take off the heat.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the basmati, then put it in a pot with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom and seasoning. Bring to a boil, simmer for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then drain.

To build the layered dish, place a spoonful of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Spoon one portion the vegetable curry, then top that with some the cooked grains. Sprinkle a portion the saffron water, ginger, mint leaves, cardamom powder and garam masala, then add the reserved fried onions. Layer with the rest of vegetable curry, then arrange the remaining grains. Top with the rest of ghee, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice mix.

Seal with parchment, place lid securely, then bake on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours soak into the grains. Take out of the heat, leave to rest, keeping covered, for several minutes, then lift off the cover and serve with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Stir-Fry)

The Hindi term "pickling style" describes seasoning a preparation using pickling spices, and the mix contains mustard, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, cumin, asafoetida and nigella, but they're not used only in preserved foods. The blend also appears in all manner of spiced dishes and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cook 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then reserve. Put the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Introduce the ground spices and the hing, and fry, stirring, for a few seconds. Mix in the chopped ginger, cook for a minute, then add the squash, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for five minutes more.

Add a small amount liquid to the pan, season with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, reduce the flame, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then add the mango powder, stir well and present hot with chapatis or leavened bread.