Discovering the Enchanted Landscape of Hans Christian Andersen's Native Land in Denmark
Reflected back at me, I appear to be wearing huge shimmering pantaloons, visible only to me. Youngsters sit in a rock pool pretending to be mermaids, while adjacent rests a talking pea in a display case, alongside a tall pile of cushions. This is the domain of H.C. Andersen (1805-1875), one of the 1800s highly cherished writers. I’m in Odense, located on the island of Fyn in the southern part of this Nordic country, to explore the author's lasting influence in his home town 150 years after his passing, and to discover a handful of magical stories of my own.
The Museum: The Andersen Museum
HC Andersens Hus is the town's exhibition space celebrating the writer, including his first home. A museum representative states that in past designs of the museum there was scant attention on Andersen’s stories. Andersen's biography was studied, but The Little Mermaid were nowhere to be found. For tourists who visit this place in search of storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.
The renovation of the city center, rerouting a primary street, provided the opportunity to rethink how the city’s most famous son could be honored. A major architecture competition granted Japanese firm Kengo Kuma and Associates the commission, with the innovative curatorial vision at the core of the layout. The unique wood-paneled museum with interwoven spiralling spaces opened to significant attention in 2021. “We have attempted to create a space where we don’t talk about Andersen, but we speak in the manner of Andersen: with comedy, satire and outlook,” says the expert. The landscape design embrace this concept: “This is a landscape for wanderers and for giants, it's created to give you a sense of smallness,” he says, an objective accomplished by clever planting, playing with verticality, size and numerous twisting trails in a surprisingly compact space.
The Author's Influence
The author penned several autobiographies and often provided conflicting accounts. HC Andersens Hus embraces this concept to heart; typically the opinions of his companions or fragments of written messages are displayed to subtly challenge the his narrative of happenings. “The writer is the storyteller, but he’s not reliable,” says the expert. The outcome is a fascinating whirlwind tour of Andersen’s life and art, thought processes and favorite tales. This is thought-provoking and whimsical, for grown-ups and children, with a additional basement imaginary world, the fictional village, for the youngest visitors.
Discovering the City
In the real world, the small city of this Danish city is picturesque, with historic pathways and traditional Danish homes finished in vibrant hues. The Andersen legacy is ubiquitous: the road indicators feature the author with his signature characteristic hat, metal shoe prints provide a free guided stroll, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Annually in August this dedication culminates with the regular HC Andersen festival, which honors the writer's impact through art, dance, drama and music.
During my visit, the multi-day festival had numerous performances, many were without charge. While visiting this place, I encounter colorful performers on stilts, fantastical beings and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I listen to empowering poetry and see an incredible nocturnal display with acrobatic dancers lowering from the city building and suspended from a crane. Future activities during the season are talks, family art workshops and, broadening the narrative tradition past the author, the city’s regular Magic Days festival.
Each wonderful magical places need a fortress, and the island features 123 castles and manor houses around the area
Pedaling Through History
As in much of the country, bikes are the ideal method to travel around in Odense and a “cycling highway” winds through the downtown area. Starting at my accommodation, I cycle to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then into the countryside for a circuit around Stige Island, a tiny landmass connected by causeway to the mainland. City residents relax with food here in the evening, or take pleasure in a tranquil moment fishing, paddleboarding or taking a dip.
In the city, I eat at the themed restaurant, where the menu is derived from the writer's motifs and tales. The literary work the national ode appears during my meal, and owner the host recites passages, rendered in English, as he serves every dish. This is a practice frequent in my time in Odense, the local residents enjoy storytelling and it appears sharing tales is always offered here.
Historic Estate Tours
Every excellent fairytale destinations need a castle, and Fyn features 123 castles and stately homes throughout the region. Traveling briefly from Odense, I explore Egeskov Palace, the continent's finely maintained moated palace. While much of it are accessible to the public, this historic site is also the personal dwelling of the noble family and his partner, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I contemplate if she can feel a tiny vegetable through a stack of {mattresses